Ten Common Shoe-making Processes (3)
7. Veldtschoen/Stitch Down
Veldtschoen is the only construction method that is completely waterproof. Unlike the general production method, Veldtschoen's shoemaking method uses a double-layer upper, with one layer turned outward and the other folded inward, so it is difficult for moisture to penetrate inside. In terms of stitching, one runs through the midsole and the other runs through all the bottoms.
British shoe manufacturers have boots of this construction method in the country series to meet the needs of hunting customers who travel through mountains and waters.
Wesco also uses the same method (they call it Stitch-Down), but doesn't use a spread (since the stitches run through all the bottoms, the spread is no longer connected, so it's optional).
According to Wesco's US distributor, this method can also reduce the use of nails and avoid the corrosion of the cortex after the metal is oxidized.
As an Indian shoe-making process, this is one of the most primitive ways of making shoes. The upper wraps the entire foot 360 degrees, and is only cut and sewn on the top.
Many manufacturers of Moccasin will advertise "True Moccasin construction" which means that the upper is completely wrapped, and the imitation Moccasin method will cut corners and save the bottom part.
Manufacturers of modified Moccasin, such as Russell Moccasin, use the Double Vamp (double-layer upper) form to stagger the stitching to achieve waterproofing.
Arrow Moccasin in Massachusetts still sticks to the ancient craftsmanship of the Indians, while Quoddy in Maine has both. This traditional American shoemaking method is also an important part of Amekaji.
9.Norwegian (Norwegian seam)
Although called the "Norwegian" method, this technique was actually invented by Italians. Its main purpose is to enhance water resistance based on the Goodyear method.
Therefore, compared to the Goodyear method in which the upper is stitched inward and the extension strip is sewn, the upper of the Norwegian method is turned outward, and stitches are used on the side to penetrate to the insole.
The stitching on the outer ring is roughly the same as the Goodyear method, but it is worth noting that in the Norwegian method, the extension is decorative, because the upper does not need to be bonded to the sole through the extension.
hostonestudio: Norwegian stitching also has a stitching method of burying the welt under the leather surface
10. Blake is also known as the inner branch method
This is a relatively lightweight shoemaking technique, and the leather is turned inside out and sewn directly onto the sole, so no extension is required.
The advantage of this method of production is that it produces more elegant shoes. Because of the lack of extension strips, the sole can be made quite thin, and can be cut close to the upper to achieve a more slender effect.
However, the disadvantages include not much waterproof, easy to damage and difficult to replace the bottom, etc. (The machine for making Goodyear structure is much more common than Blake's machine).
Many Italian and French shoe factories, such as Berluti, use this shoemaking process, and it is also common in lightweight shoes like the Loafer.
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